Bernheim Barrel Proof (B923) Review

First released in 2005 as a non-age-stated wheat whiskey and subsequently re-launched in 2008 as a 7y.o. wheat whiskey, Bernheim Original is named after the Bernheim brothers, the distilling company they founded, and the distillery that bears their name in Louisville, KY. Purchased by Heaven Hill in 1999 from Diageo, the Bernheim distillery became Heaven Hill’s main distilling plant following the devastating fire that destroyed their previous distillery in Bardstown. Unlike “wheated” bourbon, where wheat makes up a minority of the mashbill, the US government only allows a product to be labelled “wheat whiskey” when the mash is composed of at least 51% wheat. Bernheim Original was the first wheat whiskey produced in a large enough quantity to allow global distribution and also the first wheat whiskey to use winter wheat as its primary grain. Being a straight wheat whiskey, Bernheim Original follows all the legal requirements for the style and is made from a recipe of 51% red winter wheat, 37% corn, and 12% malted barley.

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In February of this year, Heaven Hill Distillery announced the first release of a Barrel Proof expression of Bernheim Original Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey. Having been available as part of their “You Do Bourbon” programme since the opening of their new state-of-the-art visitors centre in 2021, this extension of the Bernheim Original line is claimed to deliver the same familiar smoothness with even more depth of flavour and consists of 7to 9-year-old stocks pulled straight from the barrel and bottled without chill filtration. Like the Original, the whiskey in these releases has been produced at the namesake Bernheim Distillery in Louisville, Kentucky and aged in Heaven Hill’s rickhouses. Bernheim Barrel Proof is also be an allocated product released in batches twice a year, with each release having its own unique batch number and proof. This B923 batch is the second release for 2023 and is bottled at 120.6 proof (60.3% ABV) – let’s taste!

Vital Stats:

Name: Bernheim Barrel Proof (B923)
Age: Blend of 7 – 9y.o. stocks
Proof: 120.6 proof (60.3% ABV)
Type: Kentucky straight wheat whiskey
Mashbill: 51% red winter wheat, 37% corn, and 12% malted barley.
Producer: Heaven Hill Distillery
Website: https://heavenhilldistillery.com/bernheim-straight-wheat-whiskey.php
Glassware: Glencairn

Review

Nose: The nose opens with a mix of soft caramels bordering on butterscotch, dried red and black stone fruits, faint citrus peel, and brown sugar mixed with earthy baking spices such as cloves, cinnamon, and a touch of nutmeg. As you nose deeper the caramels give way to more complex dry earthy baking spices, tart cherries, and thick wheat notes with herbaceous charred oak and a kick of ethanol spice present in the background.

Palate: The palate opens thick and creamy with tart red and black stone fruit, and rich vanilla floating on a stream of honey that’s edged with notes of wheat, earthy baking spices and warm peppery spice that builds on the mid-palate as you chew. As the spice fades back a bit, subtle floral malt, herbaceous charred oak, lingering dried red fruit, chocolate milk, and faint citrus peel notes also emerge. The longer you chew the more the spice fades back and is replaced by syrupy honey and warm baking spice notes.

Finish: The finish opens with lingering tannic spice on the mid-palate, dried fruits, wheat notes, baking spices, and caramel, and is a touch herbaceous as it develops. The aftertaste is long and warming with faint ginger, dried fruits, milk chocolate, baking spices, and lingering caramel sweetness.

Overall 

Now in its second release, Bernheim Barrel Proof has quickly become a personal favourite. With its subtle warmth and viscous texture, it boasts a robust and complex flavour profile, whilst striking a delicate harmony between its earthy baking spices, vibrant fruits, dark barrel notes, warm tannins, and soft wheat influence which persists throughout. Despite its hefty 120.6 proof it still maintains its soft wheat whiskey character, giving an indulgent and well-rounded drinking experience that eludes the rougher edges often found in high-proof whiskies.

Adding a splash of water cuts through some of the creamy viscosity, with the honey note on the palate becoming thicker, the fruit notes more vibrant, and the malt notes more floral, whilst faintly grassy wheat notes remain steady alongside a lingering spice that still has some bite to it. In comparison to the initial release, B923 exhibits a softer, more decadent, and creamier profile. Its spices, honey, and thick fruits harmonise more effectively compared to the first release, which featured sharper fruits, hotter tannic spices, and grassier wheat notes when put against it.

To date, there have been very few wheat whiskey releases from Heaven Hill so adding this bi-annual release of straight-from-the-barrel wheat whiskey using the same format as Elijah Craig and Larceny Barrel Proof was both a no-brainer and a stroke of genius. It’s also interesting to see a possible continuation of the Heaven Hill barrel-proof whiskey trend where subsequent batches outperform the previous batch whilst setting the standard for the next batch. Personally, I’m looking forward to future releases of Bernheim Barrel Proof and the promise they hold for the Wheat Whiskey category.

Try or Buy?

With a suggested retail price of $64.99, this barrel-proof gem manages to be easy-drinking, robust, and good for the wallet! It’s also perfect for those looking to take a step into a new style of American whiskey or barrel-proof whiskies in general. Buy with confidence!